La Anita is a family-run cacao farm and small lodge near Colonia Libertad in Upala, in the green valley between the Miravalles, Rincón de la Vieja and Santa María volcanoes. Hosts Ana and Pablo grow the cacao for their own Upala Chocolate, and the farm tour that ends in a tasting is the reason most people come. Stay a night or two and you get the trails, the lagoon and the home cooking as well, in a corner of northern Costa Rica few tourists reach.
| At a glance | |
|---|---|
| Location | Colonia Libertad, Aguas Claras de Upala, Alajuela |
| Style | Small family-run farm lodge with about 10 cabins |
| Setting | Working organic cacao and fruit farm on the wet, northern side of the Guanacaste volcanoes |
| Best for | Chocolate lovers, birders, slow travelers, small retreat groups |
| Getting there | About 1.5 hours by road from Liberia airport; the last stretch is rough |
| CST status | Not listed |
Where it is
The ranch sits 450 m east of the Catholic church in Colonia Libertad, a farming village in the Aguas Claras district of Upala canton. The address is in Alajuela province, but the nearest airport and the usual approach are from Liberia in Guanacaste; one retreat organizer that has used the lodge puts the transfer at about 1.5 hours.
This is the rainy Caribbean-facing side of the Guanacaste volcanic range, so the landscape is far greener than the dry Pacific lowlands around Liberia. The Santa María sector of Rincón de la Vieja National Park, with its trails to waterfalls and hot springs, is the closest big protected area, and the Costa Rica tourism board notes that the park can also be reached from the Upala side. Recent guests say the local roads are rougher than in most of the country and recommend a high-clearance vehicle.
Cacao and the chocolate tour
Upala has grown criollo-type cacao for more than a century, and the family named its chocolate brand after the district. According to Upala Chocolate, every bean in its bars comes from La Anita or from growers in the same area, the farm’s fields are certified free of agrochemicals, and the company only makes pure dark chocolate, with no milk added. It also carries Essential Costa Rica, the country-brand certification for Costa Rican companies that meet standards on sustainability, social progress and origin.
The chocolate tour runs through the history of cacao, a walk in the plantation, the full process from pod to bar, and a tasting, with lunch for day visitors. Pablo leads it for many groups, and guest reviews single it out more often than anything else about the stay. You can also buy the chocolate on site.
The cabins
La Anita has about 10 cabins spread among the gardens, ponds and forest edge, in traditional, standard and family sizes, each with a private bathroom. Earlier descriptions of the property mention wide porches with rocking chairs and hammocks, in-room coffee makers and safes; check what your cabin includes when you book, as the lodge’s own website gives few room details. Wi-Fi is offered, though some guests report it doesn’t reach every cabin, which suits a place built around switching off.
Reservations go through the lodge’s website, and the hosts say WhatsApp is the quickest way to reach them.
Food
Meals are a big part of a stay. The kitchen cooks Costa Rican and Caribbean-influenced dishes with fruit, herbs, vegetables and cacao from the farm, and the retreat groups that use La Anita advertise exactly that. Guests have also booked cooking classes with the family. The lodge’s restaurant and bar are on site, which matters here: there’s very little else nearby.
What to do
On the farm itself you can walk the trails through the cacao and forest, swim in or sit by the stream, ride horses, book a massage and take part in the farm and chocolate programs. Day trips, overnight stays, workshops and special programs are all offered. A lagoon on the property doubles as the backdrop for yoga and meditation sessions run by visiting retreat groups.
Farther afield, the hosts can point you to Rincón de la Vieja’s Santa María trails and hot springs, the zip-line and thermal pools around Miravalles volcano, and horseback rides to waterfalls in the surrounding hills. Río Celeste and the Tenorio volcano are within a day trip.
Wildlife and nature
The farm’s mix of shade-grown cacao, fruit trees, ponds and forest attracts plenty of birds, and guests often mention hummingbirds around the cabins and howler monkeys in the trees nearby. As with any farm lodge, sightings vary with the season and the time of day, and nothing is guaranteed.
Sustainability
La Anita’s sustainability story is about the farm rather than solar panels. The cacao is grown without agrochemicals, the brand buys from neighboring growers, and Upala Chocolate says its whole team comes from the local community. The farm also grows heart of palm, cardamom, tropical fruit, medicinal plants and ornamental flowers, which keeps the land diverse rather than planted to a single crop. These are the family’s own descriptions; the lodge isn’t listed in the CST sustainable tourism directory, and it publishes no details on energy, water or waste.
Who it suits
La Anita is a strong choice for anyone curious about where chocolate comes from, for birders who like quiet farmland, and for small groups looking for a calm retreat base. Families who want warm hosts and simple comfort tend to love it, judging by guest reviews.
It’s not for travelers who want beach time, nightlife or an easy paved drive, and it’s a detour from the usual Arenal to Guanacaste circuit. If you’d rather stay closer to Río Celeste, look at Celeste Mountain Lodge or Tenorio Lodge, browse the rest of the northern Costa Rica eco lodges, or read our guide to organic farm stays in Costa Rica.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need to stay overnight to take the chocolate tour at La Anita?
No. The farm offers day visits built around the chocolate tour and lunch, as well as overnight stays. Staying over gives you time for the trails, the stream and a second round of tasting.
Is the chocolate at La Anita organic?
Upala Chocolate says its fields are certified free of chemicals and that it uses organic inputs. All the cacao comes from La Anita or nearby growers in Upala, and the bars are pure dark chocolate without milk.
How do I get to La Anita Rainforest Ranch?
Most guests fly into Liberia and drive or take a transfer of about 1.5 hours to Colonia Libertad in Aguas Claras de Upala. Reviews describe rough roads near the end, so a higher-clearance vehicle helps. The hosts can advise on current conditions.
Is La Anita a good base for Rincón de la Vieja?
It's well placed for the park's quieter Santa María sector and the Upala approach, rather than the busier Las Pailas entrance near Liberia. Listings put the park roughly 30 km away by road; check the route and conditions with the hosts first.
