Cataratas Bijagua Lodge is a small, family-built cluster of wooden bungalows outside Bijagua de Upala, in the gap between the Miravalles and Tenorio volcanoes. Its draw is simple and specific: a private 5.2 km loop trail that leaves from the garden, crosses two hanging bridges and reaches a 15-meter waterfall on the Río Bijagua, with the Río Celeste a short drive away for the next day.
At a glance
| Location | Bijagua de Upala, Alajuela province, on the lower slopes of Volcán Miravalles |
|---|---|
| Style | Rustic, family-run lodge of independent wooden bungalows |
| Setting | Gardens and forest between Miravalles and Tenorio volcanoes, with its own waterfall trail |
| Best for | Hikers, birders and families who want a low-key base for the Río Celeste |
| Getting there | About 2.5 hours by car from Liberia airport, according to the lodge |
| CST status | Not in the official CST directory on 2026-Oct-21 |
A family project since 2004
The lodge’s home page tells a short story: in 2004 a group of relatives decided to build a lodge by hand on their own land, using materials from the area. It still describes itself as a family project rather than a chain, and the site has been refreshed recently, with direct booking and a 2026 footer. Recent guest reviews on the big booking platforms point the same way, describing a working lodge with clean, rustic cabins and friendly staff.
That background shows in the place itself. The bungalows are all timber, the bar counter is made from trees from the property, and the kitchen leans on food grown or made nearby. None of it is polished in the resort sense, and the lodge doesn’t pretend otherwise.
Where it sits
Bijagua is a farming town in the canton of Upala, in the saddle between two volcanoes of the Guanacaste range. Miravalles rises on one side and Tenorio on the other, and the lodge stands on the Miravalles flank. The lodge puts Liberia’s international airport about two and a half hours away by car, and the Río Celeste about 15 km off.
Two national parks frame the valley, and they’re at very different stages:
- Tenorio Volcano National Park is the one most visitors come for. SINAC describes its main path, the Misterios del Tenorio trail, as about 3.2 km long, passing the Río Celeste waterfall, the Pozo Azul, the bubbling volcanic vents and El Teñidero, where two clear streams meet and the river turns its famous pale blue.
- Miravalles Jorge Manuel Dengo National Park was upgraded from a protected zone in June 2019 and covers about 4,300 hectares, but as of mid-2025 it remained closed to the public while ranger housing and visitor facilities were still being built. So the volcano behind the lodge is scenery, not a hiking destination, for now.
The bungalows
The accommodation page lists five types of freestanding wooden bungalows, all opening onto the garden. The lodge doesn’t publish a total count.
- Bungalow Doble: one double bed under a mosquito net, with a window onto the garden.
- Bungalow Superior: two beds, a mosquito net and a small fridge, with windows on two sides facing the greenery.
- Bungalow Triple Superior: three beds and a porch with a hammock that steps straight out into the garden.
- Bungalow Familiar: one large room with several beds, a ceiling fan and a terrace, the option guests describe as the most basic.
- Bungalow Superior Waterfall: the largest unit, sleeping up to six, with an equipped kitchen, private bathroom with hot water, air conditioning and a hammock porch.
Expect fans and screens rather than air conditioning in most units. A few guest reviews mention lukewarm showers, so travelers who care about hot water should ask which bungalow they’re getting.
The waterfall trail
The trail is the main reason to stay, and it’s included with a room. According to the experiences page, it’s a 5.2 km circuit that starts at the lodge and is walked without a guide. Along the way it passes through three types of forest (premontane rainforest, transition forest and cloud forest), crosses two hanging bridges and stops at three lookouts over the Bijagua valley. There are pools for a swim on the way.
The walk ends at the Catarata Bijagua, a 15-meter fall on the Río Bijagua fed by runoff from Miravalles. The lodge notes that it’s at its fullest in the green season, when the rains are steady. The lodge rates the loop as moderate and suggests two to three hours, an early start, closed shoes, water and insect repellent.
Two other outings round out the program:
- Night walk: a guided walk around the grounds after dark, with a headlamp provided, looking for frogs, insects, snakes and the birds you mostly hear rather than see.
- Birdwatching at dawn: a guided early-morning walk, included with a stay. The lodge doesn’t publish a species list.
Older descriptions of this lodge mention a water slide, horseback riding, mud baths and a small hydroelectric turbine. None of these appears on the current website, so don’t plan around them without asking.
Food from the valley
The open-sided timber dining room has long benches, hanging bulbs and views into the garden, and serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The gastronomy page describes traditional Costa Rican cooking built on vegetables from Bijagua, fresh cheese from Upala and fish from the region, under the motto that nothing travels far. Recipes have been refined over twenty years in the same kitchen. Being able to eat on site matters here, since the town’s restaurants are a drive away on dark rural roads.
The bar serves cold beer, local coffee and fresh drinks, and has a pair of hammocks facing the forest. The lodge doesn’t list special diets, so mention allergies or vegetarian needs when booking.
Sustainability: modest and local
This isn’t a lodge with a formal sustainability program, and it isn’t listed in the official CST directory. What it offers is the quieter kind of rural tourism: a family keeping forest standing on its own land, building with local timber and buying food from neighboring farms. The lodge describes its commitment as rural tourism and conservation of the surrounding forest. Readers who want measured, certified practices should look at our CST certification guide before choosing.
Who it suits
Cataratas Bijagua works for travelers who want to hike from the door, spend a day at the Río Celeste and go to bed early to the sound of frogs. It suits families and small groups well, thanks to the triple, family and kitchen-equipped bungalows, and it’s a sensible stop on a loop between Liberia, the Río Celeste and Arenal.
It’s not the right pick for anyone who needs air conditioning in every room, reliable hot showers or spa-level comfort. Guests who want a little more polish in the same valley can compare Tenorio Lodge or Celeste Mountain Lodge, and for another family farm stay in Bijagua see Finca Verde Lodge. There’s an older write-up of Cataratas Bijagua Lodge on Costa Rica Journeys too. Browse more northern eco-lodges, and read our Arenal and Río Celeste guide to plan the rest of the route.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a guide for the Cataratas Bijagua waterfall trail?
No. The 5.2 km loop is self-guided and included with a stay. It starts at the lodge, takes about two to three hours and crosses two hanging bridges before reaching the 15-meter waterfall.
How far is Cataratas Bijagua Lodge from the Río Celeste?
The lodge puts the Río Celeste about 15 km away. The river is reached through Tenorio Volcano National Park, whose main trail is about 3.2 km and passes the waterfall, the Pozo Azul and El Teñidero.
Can I hike Miravalles Volcano from the lodge?
Not at present. Miravalles became a national park in 2019, but as of mid-2025 it was still closed to visitors while facilities were being built. The lodge sits on its lower slopes, so the volcano is part of the view.
Which bungalow is best for a family?
The Bungalow Superior Waterfall sleeps up to six and has a kitchen, a private bathroom with hot water and air conditioning. The Triple Superior and the Familiar are simpler options with more beds in one room.
